In my world, there are two seasons; Viking and Pirate. Viking season lasts for most of the year. Pirate season pretty much arrives with the first waves of summer heat and stays until, well… until I am sick of it being hot.
Pirate season was fully upon us and I was bored, restless, and ready to escape to the big blue salty for a while. So, without any real plan on where I was going to end up, I threw my beach camping stuff in the truck, grabbed my four-legged co-pilot, and headed south and east.
I love the beach. Love it. I love the smell of the ocean and the feel of the salty air. I love being on island time, putting my watch away and putting my phone on DND (that’s “Do Not Disturb” for those of you who are a bit… slow on the uptake). The beach is my place to detach from the world and put some salve on the wounds that life in a modern society causes.
I love most any beach. That strip of earth where the water meets the land and everything makes sense. But, like most things, I do have my favorites. While, yes, I live in Virginia and while, yes, Virginia has beaches… I prefer the Outer Banks. Mostly, I suppose, this is because I have been going there for almost 20 years but there are other reasons too. I love North Carolina. It is my adoptive home state. I also love the long strip of highway known as NC 12. While, yes, you may drive both North and South on NC 12… locals refer to it as “South 12” or, at least on Bodie Island, as “The Beach Road”.
On the Outer Banks I have my favorite spots. I love the beach near Oregon Inlet… the public access beach is called Coquina Beach but I know it as “Off Road Vehicle Ramp 2” (Actually… this is the first summer in a LONG time that ORV ramp 2 is open. I have been using ORV ramp 4 for years now) I love the beach near Buxton that is accessed by ORV Ramps 48-49 and I LOVE the beach at the Ocracoke ORV ramp 68.
Most often I hit the northernmost beach as it shaves hours off of my trip. This time, however, I headed to Buxton.
I camp at the amazing National Park Service campgrounds. Pulling into a spot and pitching my tent. I got there late at night so I pretty much just crashed. Then I got up and hit first sun on the beach.
Some things are just good for the soul and watching the big orange ball climb out of the Atlantic just soothes something in me. I sat for a while and just… thought. Then, I heard the call of the caffeine and headed back to my campsite to brew up some De Espresso Liber.
Coffee itch scratched, I packed up my campsite, paid for the campground, and headed out.
My first stop was Ocracoke. I love Ocracoke. It’s called Teach’s Hole because, during his attempt to go legit in Bath, NC, Blackbeard’s crew anchored offshore and, it was in Ocracoke Inlet that he met his end at the hands of Lt. Robert Maynard of the Royal Navy. I digress. Ocraoke has this cool almost Key Westish vibe… without the third world trailer park feel. It can get a bit congested during the day, however, as it is an exceptionally popular spot for fat 50 somethings in their wicker golf hats and purple polo shirts who roll around the island in their rented golf carts but, for all that… it is amazing. Good coffee, good food, and down to earth locals who, truth be told, really appreciate someone who isn’t of the aforementioned demographic.
Ocracoke is also home to what is, without a doubt, the best taco establishment that I have ever been to… Eduardos.
Eduardos is a no-frills taco truck with an outdoor eating area… kind of. Ok, it sits in a parking lot and the eating area is behind it. I chose the eating area that is called… the cargo area of Freyja.
Tacos consumed I returned to Hatteras island via the ferry and stopped for more coffee at the Dancing Turtle coffee shop which is a locally owned coffee shop in an old house. It is homey and comfortable. The staff is friendly and the coffee is as good as the name.
Taking my time, I rolled back north, up Hatteras Island and across the bridge onto Bodie Island then into Nags Head, Kill Devil Hills, and Kitty Hawk stopping at my favorite places and seeing my friends who call the OBX home. Then I rolled off the island and, reluctantly, headed home. I didn’t have all the time in the world, just enough for a quick escape and on opportunity to officially open pirate season.
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